::INSETI Home Pages - Photography Tips & Info::

When taking picture, there is one very important thing to consider. The size of the negative makes a very big difference. The bigger the negative the clearer the image, and the more an image can be enlarged. The benefit of clear enlargements is easy to see, the more you can zoom in on an object, the better chance of a true identification. There are three kinds of film commonly used in cameras today, these being 110, 135 & Advantix, but the latter is by no means a real advantage. The Advantix film has a smaller negative size than a 135, so the end image can not be enlarged or even printed as clearly. The table below explains :

	Length	Height	Surface Area
110	17 mm	13 mm	221 mm ²
Advantix	21 mm	15 mm	315 mm ²
135	36 mm	24 mm	864 mm ²

There are other negative sizes, some as large as 100 mm and bigger. The reason for the information on this page is for those people who want to take pictures of a UFO (or anything). For example: if you use a 110 camera, not only will overall picture quality be poorer but enlargement of all or part of the image is restricted so mush. Using a 135 camera apart from vastly improved image quality but the picture can be enlarged incredibly more. Looking at the negatives you might not understand why there would be such a huge difference in the end product. Just imagine if you were to increase the images size by a margin of 10. ( This being far much more than standard processing ) A 110 would go from a negative size of 17 mm to a print size of 17 cm, the Advantix would go from a negative size of 21 mm to a print size of 21 cm and the 135 would go from 36mm to a print size of 36 cm. The graph below demonstrates :

	Red = 110 Negative
	Yellow = 110 Enlargement
	Dark Green = Advantix Negative
	Green = Advantix Enlargement
	Dark Blue = 135 Negative
	Light Blue = 135 Enlargement

Any and all pictures of possible U.F.O's regardless of which film and camera you use are of interest.
If you want the best results in photography, we hope this information will help in some way.
After all, when the definitive U.F.O. picture is taken, it will be printed in every newspaper in the world !

When photographing an object, it is a good idea to try and get some other object within the frame. Such as a building, tree or the horizon. This helps analysts work out size, distance and speed. One of the most common problems with UFO photos is focus. This is due to one of three things ( four if you include hoaxing )

1:		If the camera has a manual focus, this can take time to set properly and therefore can often be far from right.
2:		Movement of the camera, due to the person moving, wind forcing movement or an unsteady footing. This added to the object being photographed possibly moving as well, can cause great big problem for focusing properly.
3:		Negative Size. (as mentioned above) With smaller negatives, even the slightest of slip can cause distortion. Also the print and/or enlargement of such negative are always of a lower quality, some small images are often beyond any recognition.

In photographs and more recently video footage, more often than not the images are out of focus. On one TV program, the people on the show got very excited about a ball of light. Unfortunately, anyone who knows how to use such equipment would have spotted the focus error. Any light, from a pin prick of star light down to street light, become strange coloured balls of light when out of focus. Even a satellite, which appears as a dot of light moving across the sky, appears as a ball when mis-focused.

The advise from professional photographers and film makers, is that if you practice filming normal aircraft at night, trying to get their lights into sharp focus. As even a fast moving light will appear as a blurred line on a still image. Then a true UFO whether day or night is more likely be in a sharpened focus shot. Resulting in a picture or video which is clear to the point of zero deniability.

Another thing to be taken into consideration is the aperture setting. On cameras the darker the shot, the wider the aperture and the slower the shutter speed. This results in the image becoming blurred again, even if it is in sharp focus through the view finder. Problems occur more often with video cameras. The aperture is controlled by a diamond shaped hole, this cause no problems until you try to focus on a distance object and/or in slightly lower light levels compared to say midday. What you end up with is a two tone diamond shape imposed on top of the normal image. This diamond image has been seen in many amateur films, where the people concerned didn't fully understand their equipment. Something else which has caught people out, has been internal reflection. This is basically where light has entered the camera, bounced off the inside, back onto the lens, and back onto the film or tape.

When all is said and done, one day, some one somewhere will take the perfect video footage. Perfect focus, with perfect lighting. And some bastard will still try to make out it is fake. But the more we do to perfect or means of photographing images, the harder it wil be for them to prove otherwise.

dlradio @ gmail.com = when have the space for photos sent - Thanks to Downloads Radio.

110 ( 11mm)	Advantix ( 20mm )	135 ( 35mm )